Printable View
last night i shimmed the charger up so it was tight like 45in lbs went and drove the car never really felt any diffrence and i took the belt off and i could just hold the impeller and spin the pulley so i tryed shimming it tighter and same problem??someone please help also it kinda sounds like a bad p/s pump and the head unit is kinda notchy when turning it over when i have it shimmed by the way this is a sn-89
anybody??
If it's notchy, you've gone and pulled out a piece of the impeller shaft or races and you'll need to rebuild it. You can't overtighten these things, there's hundreds of pounds per sq in pressure on the ball drive and if you overdo it, it'll tear up.
Granted, rebuilds of this kind of thing are dead easy and not too expensive. The impeller shaft is a little pricey at 150 bucks or so but, if that's survived, then it's just new balls and races, about 150 bucks intotal and good to go.
well i've pulled it all apart and everything looks good the balls, impeller shaft so what do you think i should do? i havent been able to get this thing right since i bought it when i shim it up tight its really notchy when you spin it also how tight should it be? thanks for the help
It should NEVER be notchy. Stiff to turn by hand, yes but, notchy means something has come adrift in there. Balls could be out of round, a piece of the impeller shaft or race could be pulled out. You may have to inspect closely. The tiniest imperfection will cause noise like you describe and damage. 45 inch/lbs is WAY high for a stock SN blower, between 35-40 assembled and full of fluid is max.
The blower is really a very simple design and as long as it's not pushed beyond it's design parameters, it's VERY reliable.
do you no of any reason why when i shim it tight and go for a ride and when i get back i can hold the impeller and spin the pulley?
You sure you haven't sheared off the dowel pins that fix the impeller to the impeller shaft or that prevent the races from spinning in the housing?
F=MA
im sure that the ones for the races are intact but where are the ones for the impeller shaft?
Where the impeller bolts to the impeller shaft with the little 12 point bolt, there's two roll pins in the shaft right next to the bolt hole that meets holes drilled in the impeller itself.
See attached picture....
F=MA
so i need to remove the back cover to get to that, but if they were sheared off then i should be able to hold the impeller and spin the pulley all the time...because when i have it shimmed tight i cannot spin the impeller except when turning the pulley
The tighter the ball drive, the more likely the impeller would be to slip, if the pins were missing.
Let's get back to this being notchy and whining like a busted PS pump. These are classic signs of pieces being broken out of the impeller shaft and/or races, balls being out of round. The I shaft in the picture has a tiny little pull out, a few thou across and one deep and, it sounded and acted like you describe. Ditto, I bought the blower busted and it had a race with a similar tiny bit of steel pulled out and it was noisy and notchy as all hell.
After a super-cheapo, $50 race replacement only repair the first time the blower did 3 seasons of drag racing and street driving. This time, I bucked up for new balls to go with the new I shaft, so far so good. The blower CAN work and be durable.
F=MA
wher u get the race for 50? i guess ill pull it apart and looks closer wher do you shim behind the bellevue washer or the race?
I bought a used set from Craig at PW. They are still in there and doing fine. If memory serves it's shim stack first, then bellvue.
There might just be a dent or distortion in the face of the races or the impeller shaft, of the balls could be out of round. These are VERY hard things to see. The balls are cheap from Craig.
F=MA
do you have a number i can reach craig or a website?
The company is called Paradise Wheels and the # is:
760-740-0954